How to prepare your XRAY NT1 for a race
Categories : Trucs et astuces
Through this article, you will discover step by step how to prepare your XRAY NT1 in the best possible way. It will also be presented all the option parts that we use to increase the performance of the car.
1st step :
Remove the radio plate, engine and battery to make space to have better access to all the parts like the photo below.
Disassemble all the moving parts to check them and to clean them. Moving parts are always under mechanical stress and you have to check it regularly to be sure that you will restrict the problem and have the best performance possible.
There will remain only the fixed parts on the chassis that is to say the bulkheads.
We now can start the verification and the cleaning.
3rd step :
We start with the rear axle. And more particularly the suspension.
Before checking all the parts we have to clean them to see all the details.
On the picture above, check the pin of the drive shaft. If the pin is flat you have to replace it or change de shaft. It can cause some bad reaction of your car. Check also all the bearings, they need to move freely. If not, replace the bearing who are not correct.
On the picture below, control that the pivot pins move freely in the arm. If not use the Hudy 3mm reamer.
In the same time check that upright move freely and don't have too much play. Reduce the play in the maximum.
For the pulley, remove the dust and stones that can be fit in by using the cutter or a toothbrush. A clean pulley assure you a better lifetime of your belts and a better efficiency of your transmission.
4th step : Let's focus on the optional parts I use on the rear axle
- Lightweight 2 speed shaft for a weight gain on the rotating masses in order to have a better engine performance: https://www.la-rcshop.com/fr/transmission/68-axe-de-boite-de-vitesse-allege.html
- Ventilated brake disk in order to have a more constant braking during your run : https://www.la-rcshop.com/fr/transmission/64-disque-de-frein-ventile-xray-nt1.html
- Lightweight brake disk adapter for a weight gain on the rotating masses in order to have a better engine performance
- Kevlar belt, more flexible belt in order to have a better transmission efficiency: https://www.la-rcshop.com/fr/transmission/119-courroie-arriere-kevlar-55x177mm.html
- Aluminium drive shaft for a weight gain on the rotating masses in order to have a better engine performance: https://www.la-rcshop.com/fr/transmission/67-cardan-arriere-aluminium-xray-nt1.html
- Brake pad spring spacing in order to avoid the touching of the brake pad during the unwanted moment: https://www.la-rcshop.com/fr/transmission/69-ressort-espacement-plaquette-de-frein.html
Note: I advise you to use the standard yellow brake pad. It's simply with them that I have the best feeling between the power of braking and the progressivity.
5th étape :
Reassemble the 2 speed shaft axle without forgetting the brake disc, the brake disk adapter and the rear belt.
Fit the differential with the rear drive shaft.
Remember to grease the pins of the drive shaft with HUDY graphite grease: https://www.la-rcshop.com/en/-silver-grease/70-graphic-grease-for-cardan.html
This will limit the temperature rise between the pin and the differential output and reduce the wear.
Once the differential is in place, adjust the alignment of the belt with the brake disk adapter. On the brake disk adapter screw, use a red threadlock.
Fit the rear roll bar.
Remember to center the bar to have a symmetrical operation of this one.
Then put the upper cells and tighten while having adjusted the tension of the belt.
Usually, with kevlar belts, I adjust my eccentrics to the center. The pin looks the sky.
We are now preparing the gearbox. Degrease the gearbox and the bell of 2nde to remove any fatty residue that could make slipping between the flyweights of the gearbox and the bell.
For the one way, use a dry cloth (without degreaser as it may spill dirt into the rollers) into the rollers to remove dirt. And put a drop of Hudy oneway oil.
Same process as the rear axle for the front axle for the check of the play, movements and wear.
We start to fit the front arms on the chassis, then the front drive shaft while thinking well to use the graphite HUDY grease.
Note: I do not put the BTR screw in the cylinder to lock the axle. In any case, the axis is blocked by the bearing and can not go out. Moreover, if this screw loosens it can block the drive shaft (personal experience).
Front differential assembly with middle axle.
For the position of eccentrics I advise you to put the eccentric between 1 and 2 notches forward to have the ideal belt tension setting.
We then put in place the upper bulkheads and the front anti-roll bar, thinking to put it well symmetrical with respect to the axis of the chassis.
For placement of the anti-roll bar link, put the ball joint at the hole in the upper front arm. When the arm is working, this will prevent the ball joint from touching the upper arm and thus reducing the suspension movement.
Let's talk a little about the battery plate.
I most often use the plastic plate which offers more flex to the chassis and therefore more general grip.
It is also possible to use the brass battery plate on high-grip tracks to make the car less sensitive to traction roll and to have a less nervous car.
Thank you for having followed this first part.
Monday, March 26 we will see how to prepare the shock absorbers and my method to set the car.